Fragrance briefs often begin with a list of notes and a requested concentration. Those inputs are useful, but they do not yet describe a production-ready perfume. Two formulas can share the same note vocabulary and smell very different; two products at the same concentrate percentage can also perform differently.
The goal is to translate subjective scent language into an evaluation target that the buyer and factory can compare consistently.
Top, heart and base notes are a map
The familiar top–heart–base structure describes how the character of a fragrance is perceived over time:
- Top or opening: the first impression after application. It often contains bright, volatile effects, but the term describes perception rather than a fixed ingredient list.
- Heart or mid: the central character that becomes clearer after the opening settles.
- Base or dry-down: the longer-lasting impression and the materials or effects that support the composition.
This pyramid is a communication model, not a laboratory schedule. Notes overlap, materials evaporate at different rates, and the wearer, substrate and environment affect what is perceived.
Use scent families before long note lists
A practical brief starts broad and then narrows. Define the family or structure first—such as citrus aromatic, floral, woody, amber, fresh aquatic, gourmand, fruity or musky—then explain the desired balance.
“Woody” alone is too broad. “Dry cedar-led woody with a clean musky base, low sweetness and a restrained citrus opening” gives the evaluator more direction. Add the target user, market, season, price position and examples discussed privately.
For Dupe development, the reference scent is the sensory target. The finished product should use the buyer’s own brand, artwork, bottle selection and independent packaging; third-party names, logos and trade dress should not be reproduced.
What concentration does—and does not—tell you
Commercial descriptions such as Eau de Toilette, Eau de Parfum or Extrait are widely used, but percentage conventions vary across brands and markets. For manufacturing, record the actual agreed fragrance-concentrate percentage rather than relying only on the marketing term.
Higher concentration can change intensity, diffusion, colour, clarity, cost and the balance of the formula. It does not automatically create better projection or longer wear. Performance also depends on the formula’s materials, solvent system, application amount, skin, fabric, climate and evaluation method.
A useful quotation identifies the approved fragrance code, concentrate percentage, fill volume and production quantity. “EDP quality” is not precise enough for production control.
Why dry-down must be evaluated
Approving only the first spray creates avoidable surprises. A reference-led fragrance can feel close in the opening but diverge in the heart or base. Evaluate at consistent intervals and record what changes.
A simple evaluation sequence is:
- Smell the blotter before spraying to confirm it is neutral.
- Apply the same number of sprays from the same distance.
- Record the opening impression immediately.
- Review the heart after the volatile opening settles.
- Review the dry-down several hours later and again the next day when appropriate.
- Compare the reference and proposal under the same conditions.
Use descriptors such as sweeter/drier, brighter/darker, cleaner/earthier, more floral/more woody, softer/sharper and closer/further in each stage. “I do not like it” is honest feedback but does not tell the formulator what to adjust.
Control the evaluation conditions
Temperature, humidity, recent food, smoke, other fragrances and olfactory fatigue can all affect judgment. Limit the number of samples in one session, label every blotter, avoid fragranced rooms and take breaks.
Test on blotter first for controlled comparison. Skin testing adds useful wearer information but introduces individual variation. Fabric can retain certain effects longer and should be treated as a separate observation.
Scent preference is not the safety assessment
A fragrance that smells acceptable is not automatically ready for every product use or market. IFRA Standards can restrict, prohibit or set purity requirements for certain fragrance materials. Conformity for the intended use supports formula review but does not replace applicable law or the finished-product safety assessment.
Primary references
- IFRA Standards overview
- IFRA Code of Practice
- European Commission fragrance-allergen labelling information
Sensory terms are not universal specifications. Confirm the formula, concentration, intended use, safety documentation and destination-market requirements for the final product.